Take the Bondi to Manly Walk to discover a different side of Sydney
Take the Bondi to Manly Walk to discover a different side of Sydney

It’s easy to get sucked into a state of complacency because, depending on how you approach the Bondi to Manly Walk, you’re either beginning at Sydney’s most or second-most famous beach. If you are not a first-time visitor, you can anticipate that the walk will be familiar, if not easy.

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Without a doubt, however, the Bondi to Manly Walk, or B2M, which was introduced in December 2019, is an 80-kilometer journey through the untamed center of Australia’s largest and most vibrant city. A long-nosed bandicoot is more likely to be spotted than a Bondi hipster along the nearly half of the walk that winds through national parkland.

There’s a section between Taronga Zoo and Bradleys Head that feels completely foreign, a tunnel of twisted angophora trees where black-bellied swamp snakes lurk unseen and primitive-looking water dragons sun themselves on the trail. However, if you look past the foliage, you can still make out the Harbour Bridge and the city skyline rising above Port Jackson’s glistening waters. This walk’s recurring theme is the stark differences between civilized and uncivilized cities.

The walk connects a number of established coastal trails, each with its own mysteries and treasures. It is advisable to make plans in advance because there is so much to see and do.

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Which would you prefer—beautiful mansions, breathtaking views, or both? Do you want to experience different cultures, eat and drink well while traveling, or swim on stunning beaches? Do you have an interest in European and indigenous history? or the natural world? Animals? Sceneries? Architecture? Everything mentioned above is feasible.

Or, like me, you could just leave most things up to chance. In this manner, you could begin the walk at Bondi Beach’s lifeguard tower and, just a short while later, find yourself sitting on the edge of Ben Buckler Headland, admiring the historic engravings on the sandstone escarpment. The Eora Nations people created the markings, which show a shark, a whale, and a lizardman. Time has obscured the markings’ precise origins and meanings.

The cliff top offers breathtaking views that stretch south to Maroubra and beyond in one direction and all the way to North Head in another. I see the harbor and coast from every perspective over the course of the following few days, and each one is unique.

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Explore well-known Sydney landmarks in a new way.

Although the walk’s first stage is fairly well-known, it is still worthwhile to take the time to enjoy its discoveries if you are not one of the many locals who walk it every day.

Joel Adler’s Viewfinder, a periscope sculpture that depicts the wrath of the ocean far below, is the best way to see the brochure-perfect panoramas of Sydney Harbour (the view from Dudley Page Reserve in Dover Heights is breathtaking), Australia’s first lighthouse (the Macquarie Lighthouse), cliff panoramas, and roaring seas during the first hour.

Additionally, there are remnants of a CSIRO radio astronomy site that was once one of the most significant of its kind in the world and used to record extra-galactic signals.

Spend some time exploring Sydney’s undiscovered beaches.

Considering the hike’s numerous detours, my best advice would be to go slowly. I regret not allowing more time to swim at all the mermaid beaches along the route, but I managed to cover the 80km in three days with few blisters.

Pedra do Castelo Beach. Image credit: Kendall Hill
Pedra do Castelo Beach. Image credit: Kendall Hill

It’s like stumbling into an urban paradise when you land on the immaculate sands of Camp Cove, as Arthur Phillip did when he first arrived in Port Jackson in 1788. You should definitely go for a swim.

Similarly, there are charming harbor beaches like Lady Martins, Redleaf, Nielsen Park, and Whitings Beach on the north coast, as well as the honeycomb sands of Balmoral and Castle Rock Beach’s positively Maldivian vibes. One of the best places to hike is Castle Rock, which is only reachable by boat or foot.

Explore a multitude of architectural and historical sites.

The lavishness of coastal residences, from Point Piper to Cremorne, with its remarkable collection of Arts & Crafts mansions, will appeal to lovers of architecture and real estate. Spend some time exploring the public colonial structures, including the Strickland and Vaucluse houses, which are situated in lovely grounds.

Discover the secrets of the harbor on tours led by the Sydney Harbour Federation Trust, which is in charge of maintaining iconic sites like Headland Park, the Macquarie Lighthouse, and the Platypus submarine base in Mosman.

I took a fascinating tour here with volunteer guides, learning about the old war hospital at Georges Heights and exploring the maze-like passageways of a post-Crimean War sandstone fort. I’ve lived in Sydney for over ten years, but I was unaware of its existence.

Hidden along the trail are remnants of First Nations culture, such as a 3,200-year-old cave and kitchen at the southern end of Balmoral Beach and additional rock carvings at Dobroyd Point. Dreamtime Southern X offers a tour that shares Eora’s thoughts on Port Jackson if you’re interested in finding out more about Sydney’s Indigenous past.

Even though places like Vancouver and Hong Kong have some amazing city walks, none that capture a city’s essence as completely as this one come to mind. As we walk through the affluent suburbs of Vaucluse and Double Bay, my friend Jacqui manages to capture its unique character.

“Every neighborhood is there!” she exclaims. Everywhere you go, people are just going about their daily lives. They’re not travelers. There are snippets of information about people’s lives everywhere. And what makes it special is how easily accessible it is.

Maccallum Pool at Cremorne Point Harbour. Photo credit: Kendall Hill
Maccallum Pool at Cremorne Point Harbour. Photo credit: Kendall Hill

Travel tips: where to eat, where to stay, and how to prepare

The walk isn’t too hard as long as you pace yourself according to your level of fitness. It is easy to navigate thanks to the newly installed signage from 2022 and the well-maintained paths. Since the route passes some of Sydney’s most exquisite waterfront restaurants, there’s no need to bring food. The Archie Bear cafe with a view of Mosman Bay, the Bathers Pavilion at Balmoral, the beach huts at Watsons Bay, Parsley Bay, and Nielsen Park, and Manly’s abundance of waterfront eateries are all options.

Downloading the B2M app should be your first move, followed by planning. Depending on your budget, you can choose to stay in a high-end or low-end hotel. Although there are many hotels to choose from, the Sydney Central YHA is a good option if you’re on a tight budget. Million-dollar views of the harbor can be seen from its rooftop terrace.

You can avoid the trouble of moving your bags between lodgings by using Sydney’s public transportation system to get to and from your daily walk from any base in the Central Business District.

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